The Butcher’s Daughter teams up with Trumer Pils for a new take on an old European tradition
By Shanee Edwards
The Butcher’s Daughter, 1205 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, (310) 981-3004 thebutchersdaughter.com
When it comes to cuisine, restaurateur Heather Tierney believes in balancing masculine and feminine qualities. Her Venice restaurant is one of four locations in Los Angeles and New York bearing the name The Butcher’s Daughter, which suggests both masculine and feminine vibes.
“The name,” according to Tierney, “is derived from a story we invented about a butcher’s daughter. I thought if there were an old butcher today his daughter would probably be vegetarian because she grew up around all the meat and she’s bored of it. Instead, she’s really excited about vegetables — this is her butcher shop.”
The menu at The Butcher’s Daughter is comprised of healthy, plant-based food that Tierney describes as “yummy and rustic, but not hippie.” Now the restaurant has teamed up with Trumer Pils brewery to create a series of gift baskets that combine carefully crafted beers and breads with flavorful spreads to complement those carbs.
“We took a tour of the Trumer Pils brewery and it was really inspiring because they are still using the same recipe from the 1600s,” says Tierney. “It’s just four ingredients and it’s all organic.”
On the tour, she also learned that in the past, brewers would take yeast off the top of the beer, whip it into bread dough and bake delicious bread that paired perfectly with the beer. Tierney decided this holiday season was the perfect time to bring back that tradition.
“I’ve created a special list of breads and spreads made with the same ingredients in their Pilsner,” says Tierney, who admits she was surprised at how well the ingredients worked together. “With the bread, they really enlivened the flavors. The hops can be tricky to deal with, but we were able to use it in a way that didn’t make it too bitter. The malted barley brought out a great undertone in the bread.”
Barley honey and beer mustard spread on a fresh, warm pretzel does sound like the perfect winter snack — one that would likely please both the men, the women and pals in your life who embrace the full spectrum of gender fluidity.
“Beer is traditionally very masculine. Things that are sweeter like honey seem more feminine and baking in general is considered feminine,” says Tierney.
Yet, the gift baskets ($100) are a perfect balance of these qualities.
The barley honey is a truly remarkable spread. While I thought it would simply be honey infused with the flavor of barley, the spread is chock-full of roasted barley seeds. The texture is similar to crunchy peanut butter, but with a more earthy flavor. I sampled it paired with cheese and persimmon on gluten-free crackers. It made for a healthy, surprising treat that balanced perfectly with the Trumer Pils beer.
Executive chef Richard Rea describes the taste of Trumer Pils as, “Clear and buttery with a hint of citrus.” He also toured the brewery and appreciates how its brewmasters “are only fine-tuning the way they brew the beer, but they stick to the same 400-year-old recipe.”
The Trumer Pils beer you taste today likely tastes very similar to the way it did in the 1600s. It’s like time-travel for your palette.
But if you prefer to pair wine with this exciting batch of breads and spreads, that’s fine, too. And if you’re one of the folks wary of eating bread or have gluten issues, Tierney has this to say.
“It all comes down to the wheat. Wheat has really been demonized and there’s good reason. A lot of the wheat in this country is genetically modified and I think that’s where all the Celiac disease and gluten allergies come from.”
Though Tierney acknowledges she hasn’t done any major firsthand research on the effects of GMO wheat, she says, “You just don’t see wheat issues in Europe, and I think that’s because they don’t change the nature of the crop and seed. To make our pizza dough we get all our flour from Italy, so actually a lot of people with gluten allergies can eat our pizza, but we also make a gluten-free bread in-house as well.”
Whether you like your bread with or without gluten, Tierney considers bread something that should be celebrated.
“For me, bread is like love as a food. Coming out of the oven, it’s warm and comforting. There’s just so much you can do with it,” she says.